King Karl takes Gotham

New York Chanel show captures Roaring Twenties

A model wears a grey and black flowered print ruffle blouse with matching scalloped skirt.

Karl Lagerfeld took his show on the road to New York recently in the latest chapter of a remarkable ride in the annals of current fashion. The Chanel designer seems to be nearing the iconic status of Coco herself, with his trademark immaculate white ponytail, shades and rock star attire. For the grand Gotham event, Lagerfeld attracted models, muses, Hollywood stars and well-heeled, well-pearled socialites to the 57th Street flagship store. Amazingly, the boutique remained closed for more than two days during the height of the Christmas shopping frenzy for the showing of an even more expensive than usual collection of bejewelled, embroidered and feathered confections. The evening show was small, and everybody was a front-rower. There was thin-as-a-reed Lindsay Lohan, loving Chanel in a vintage day dress strewn and trimmed with seed pearls. "I've been wearing Chanel all day," the actress said in her throaty voice. Diane Kruger made haute couture her own in a jazzy beaded dress worn with cut-off leggings, while Ashley Olsen carried a darling red quilted bag and supermodel Helena Christensen stood out in the sea of black by wearing head-to-toe crimson, including sparkly red strappy sandals. On the runway, models with crimson lips, smoky eyes and pinned-under wavy bobs looked like Roaring Twenties dolls as a folksy trio led by Devendra Banhart sat on the floor at the end of the runway and serenaded the crowd. Banhart, a young, bearded man, wore a cream Chanel skirt suit over pants.The clothes -- and steamer shiploads full of accessories -- called on all the Chanel signatures. A cream, quilted leather jacket with puff sleeves was decorated with coloured jewels for an Elizabethan look. Also regal were black velvet jackets with glittering crystal beading in the form of tiaras on the sleeves. Tweed skirt suits were worn over satin stovepipe pants, while a wool suit had soft camelia motifs and Pierrot-like flounces. Swirling crystal T-strap shoes and piles of costume jewelry completed the outfits, almost all of which were black and white. The collection, positioned between pret-a-porter and haute couture, draws on the work of five Parisian ateliers Chanel has bought over the past decade. They include the legendary Lesage house for embroidery, Massaro for shoes and Desrues for buttons and jewelry. You can credit Lagerfeld for recreating the Chanel mystique and every one of its signatures -- the camellia, tweed suit, quilting, and double-C logo. And he brought the Chanel sensibility to popular culture through H&M with a low-cost line, while establishing further recognition for himself. In fact, one of the collectibles from the H&M line is a T-shirt with a Warhol-esque image of Lagerfeld. Now, Stella McCartney has gone the H&M route, and there is talk of a Prada line, too. "It's a part of modern life," Lagerfeld said.  "Chanel and H&M can very well co-exist. I like the idea that people who have not a lot of money can buy what I do."-By Eva Fred.

New York's Cocktail dresses are the toast of the town this season

Photo: Lagerfeld Gallery's cocktail dresses take traditional details, such as a sheer overlay, and twist them to make them more modern.

They're the solution for any party and most can be adapted either for daytime or black-tie occasions." The return of the cocktail dress is really about fashion's love affair with all things feminine and retro-inspired," says Gregg Andrews, fashion director at Nordstrom. The 1940s and '50s seem to be particularly influential, he says. "We're seeing a fitted bodice, fuller skirt -- often knee-length to mid-calf -- with a raised or natural waist, a very defined waist." Other details are ruching, ruffles, beading and even attached brooches. Lace and chiffon are popular fabrics for dresses as are sheer or "illusion" fabrics that allow you to see the skin through "a veil of fabric," Andrews says. "It's not as overtly sexy while still being alluring." Hints of the 1920s can be seen in straighter-shaped dresses with dropped waist and asymmetrical or handkerchief hems and a little bit of beading. It can be magical when a woman wears a "real" cocktail dress, one that was designed to be both chic and easy for when a woman was indeed drinking, designer Karl Lagerfeld says. "It's an image very much from the '50s. Chanel, Jacques Fath and Balenciaga were famous for 'cocktail dresses.' Women always wore hats then," Lagerfeld says. His fall-holiday Lagerfeld Gallery collection features a dramatic one-shoulder sheer overlay with a high waist over a strapless beaded sheath, and a brown sleeveless dress with a pleated hemline, beaded waistband and white high-neck collar. "Women are becoming more and more comfortable with the idea of dresses because more dresses are available to them. They don't offer the flexibility in fit that separates do, but the variety of styles makes up for it," says Andrews. "Women are enjoying dressing in the more feminine way that is so fashionable now." Banana Republic executive vice president of design Deborah Lloyd is one of the converts. "I'm wearing dresses all the time now," she says. "I love the fact that you don't have to think so much. The top and bottom are already together. I find them easy." One of Banana Republic's cocktail looks is a pleated taffeta dress. "It's just one of those dresses that works," Lloyd says. "It's very easy to wear. Who would've thought that of a pleated cocktail dress?" Pleats can indeed be hard to wear, but, first off, these pleats are vertical, not horizontal. Lloyd explains that because the pleats are fine, they create a flattering feminine line "and they'll hide things underneath." There also is a sheen to the fabric and the taffeta isn't too heavy, so the dress has movement. "This dress is nice because if you wear with denim jacket and boots, you can wear it in the day as well," Lloyd adds.

Black is the predominant colour on retail racks. Jewel tones, especially ruby red and teal blue, are another option, as are metallics, including light gold and bronze. "I like dresses that aren't too colourful. I like colours that are non-colours. They allow you to wear the dress. You can be chic and beautiful, but people won't see the dress walk in," Lloyd says. But with all the choices available, Andrews suggests trying something other than the round-neck, sleeveless black sheath that's become the standard "little black dress." "There's nothing wrong with that dress -- it always looks good -- but it's not this season's black dress." Andrews predicts that dresses will be popular for the next few fashion cycles. "We're definitely seeing dresses coming into spring 2006," he says.-By S. Grichell.